Oh no! Your pothos looks sad? Don’t worry, we can help! Pothos plants are tough, and even if they look like they’re about to give up, there’s a good chance we can bring them back to life. This guide will walk you through figuring out what’s wrong and how to fix it, step by step.
Quick Answer: Your dying pothos likely has a problem with watering (too much or too little), light, or nutrients. Check the soil, leaves, and where you keep the plant. Adjust watering, move it to a better spot, and maybe give it some plant food! Keep reading for more details.
Why Is My Pothos Dying?
The most important step in saving your pothos is figuring out why it’s unhappy. Pothos plants are usually pretty easy to care for, so when they start to look sick, it’s usually because something is off. Let’s look at the most common reasons:
1. Watering Problems: Too Much or Too Little
Watering is the number one reason pothos plants get sick. It’s a balancing act!
Overwatering: This is more common than underwatering. When the soil stays too wet, the roots can’t breathe and they start to rot.
- Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing leaves (especially lower ones), brown spots that are soft and mushy, wilting even when the soil is wet, and a bad smell coming from the soil.
- What to Do: Stop watering! Let the soil dry out completely. If the soil is really soggy, you might need to repot the plant with fresh, dry potting mix. Also, make sure your pot has drainage holes so excess water can escape.
- Underwatering: Pothos plants don’t like to dry out completely for long periods.
- Signs of Underwatering: Drooping leaves that feel dry and crispy, brown leaf edges, and the soil pulling away from the sides of the pot.
- What to Do: Give your pothos a good soak! Water it slowly until water comes out of the drainage holes. You can also try placing the pot in a sink or tub filled with a few inches of water and letting it soak up water from the bottom for about an hour.
2. Light Problems: Not Enough or Too Much
Pothos plants are pretty flexible when it comes to light, but they still need the right amount.
Too Little Light: Pothos plants can survive in low light, but they won’t thrive.
- Signs of Too Little Light: Slow growth, leaves that are smaller than usual, and the variegation (the patterns on the leaves) fading. Your pothos might also become "leggy," meaning the stems get long and stretched out with few leaves.
- What to Do: Move your pothos to a brighter spot. An east-facing window is usually a good choice. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.
- Too Much Light: Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of your pothos.
- Signs of Too Much Light: Sunburned leaves (they’ll look bleached or have brown, crispy spots), and leaves that are curling.
- What to Do: Move your pothos away from the direct sunlight. A north-facing window or a spot further away from a window is usually best.
3. Nutrient Deficiency: Hungry Pothos
Like all plants, pothos need nutrients to grow. If they’re not getting enough, they can start to look sick.
- Signs of Nutrient Deficiency: Yellowing leaves (often starting with the older leaves), slow growth, and leaves that are smaller than usual.
- What to Do: Fertilize your pothos with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. You can usually find this at any garden center or online. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer label. Fertilize during the growing season (spring and summer) every 4-6 weeks. Don’t fertilize in the fall or winter when the plant is resting.
4. Temperature and Humidity Problems
Pothos plants like warm temperatures and moderate humidity.
- Temperature: Avoid extreme temperatures (below 50°F or above 90°F). Keep your pothos away from drafts, heaters, and air conditioners.
- Humidity: Pothos plants can tolerate average household humidity, but they’ll appreciate a little extra.
- Signs of Temperature/Humidity Problems: Brown leaf tips, crispy leaves, and slow growth.
- What to Do: Move your pothos to a more stable location. If your home is very dry, you can increase humidity by:
- Misting the leaves regularly.
- Placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water).
- Using a humidifier.
5. Pests
Sometimes, pests can attack pothos plants.
- Common Pests: Mealybugs, spider mites, and scale.
- Signs of Pests: Small insects on the leaves or stems, sticky residue, webbing, and leaves that are discolored or distorted.
- What to Do:
- Isolate the affected plant to prevent the pests from spreading to other plants.
- Wipe down the leaves and stems with a damp cloth or cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Spray the plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Follow the instructions on the product label.
- Repeat the treatment every few days until the pests are gone.
6. Root Rot
We mentioned this with overwatering, but it’s worth going into more detail. Root rot is a serious problem that can kill your pothos if it’s not treated.
- What is Root Rot? Root rot is caused by fungi that thrive in wet soil. They attack the roots, causing them to decay.
- Signs of Root Rot: Yellowing leaves (especially lower ones), brown spots that are soft and mushy, wilting even when the soil is wet, a bad smell coming from the soil, and roots that are brown or black and mushy.
- What to Do:
- Remove the plant from the pot and gently wash away as much of the old soil as possible.
- Inspect the roots and carefully cut away any that are brown or black and mushy. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
- Repot the plant in a clean pot with fresh, well-draining potting mix.
- Water sparingly until the plant recovers.
7. Old Age
While pothos plants can live for many years, they eventually get old and may start to decline.
- Signs of Old Age: Slow growth, fewer leaves, and a generally tired appearance.
- What to Do: You can try propagating your pothos to create new plants. Take cuttings from healthy stems and root them in water or soil. This will give you new, vigorous plants to replace the old one.
How to Revive a Dying Pothos: Step-by-Step
Okay, now let’s put all that information into action! Here’s a step-by-step guide to reviving your dying pothos:
Assess the Situation: Carefully examine your pothos. Look at the leaves, stems, and soil. What are the signs you’re seeing? Use the information above to figure out what the most likely cause of the problem is.
Adjust Watering: Based on your assessment, adjust your watering habits. If you’re overwatering, let the soil dry out completely before watering again. If you’re underwatering, give your pothos a good soak.
Check the Light: Make sure your pothos is getting the right amount of light. Move it to a brighter or shadier spot as needed.
Fertilize (If Necessary): If you think your pothos is lacking nutrients, fertilize it with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
Check for Pests: Inspect your pothos carefully for pests. If you find any, treat them with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Repot (If Necessary): If you suspect root rot or if the soil is old and compacted, repot your pothos in fresh potting mix.
Prune (If Necessary): Prune away any dead or damaged leaves or stems. This will help the plant focus its energy on new growth.
- Be Patient: It can take time for your pothos to recover. Don’t give up! Keep an eye on it and adjust your care as needed.
Pothos Plant Care Tips: Preventing Problems
The best way to revive a dying pothos is to prevent problems in the first place! Here are some general care tips:
- Watering: Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Let the excess water drain away.
- Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight.
- Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix.
- Fertilizing: Fertilize every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.
- Temperature: Keep the temperature between 65°F and 85°F.
- Humidity: Pothos plants like moderate humidity.
- Pruning: Prune regularly to keep the plant healthy and bushy.
- Repotting: Repot every 1-2 years, or when the plant becomes root-bound.
Pothos Varieties and Their Specific Needs
While general care is similar, different pothos varieties might have slight variations in their needs.
- Golden Pothos: Very adaptable and forgiving, tolerating lower light and less consistent watering.
- Marble Queen Pothos: Needs brighter indirect light to maintain its vibrant variegation. Without enough light, the white marbling may fade.
- Neon Pothos: Its bright chartreuse leaves also benefit from bright, indirect light to maintain their color.
- Satin Pothos (Scindapsus pictus): Appreciates slightly higher humidity than other varieties.
- Jessenia Pothos: Similar to Golden Pothos, but with a more subtle, green variegation.
Common Mistakes Pothos Owners Make
Let’s highlight some common pitfalls to avoid.
- Using Pots Without Drainage: This is a recipe for root rot. Always use pots with drainage holes.
- Over-Fertilizing: Too much fertilizer can burn the roots and damage the plant. Always dilute fertilizer and follow the instructions carefully.
- Ignoring Pests: Catching pests early is crucial. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of infestation.
- Sudden Changes: Pothos plants don’t like sudden changes in their environment. Acclimate them slowly to new locations or conditions.
Pothos Plant Propagation: Creating New Life
Instead of letting a dying pothos go, you can take cuttings and propagate them to create new plants! Here’s how:
- Take Cuttings: Cut a stem into sections, each with at least one leaf node (the bump on the stem where a leaf grows).
- Root in Water: Place the cuttings in a jar of water, making sure the leaf nodes are submerged.
- Wait for Roots: Change the water every few days. In a few weeks, roots will start to grow.
- Plant in Soil: Once the roots are about an inch long, plant the cuttings in a pot with well-draining potting mix.
Pothos vs. Similar Plants: Distinguishing Features
Sometimes, it’s easy to confuse pothos with other trailing plants. Here’s how to tell them apart:
- Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): Leaves are typically heart-shaped and have a glossy texture. They can have variegation (patterns of white, yellow, or light green).
- Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum): Leaves are also heart-shaped, but they’re usually smaller and have a more matte texture. They are less likely to have prominent variegation.
- Monstera Adansonii: Also known as the Swiss Cheese Plant, has distinctive holes in its leaves.
FAQ: Your Pothos Questions Answered
Let’s answer some of the most frequently asked questions about dying pothos plants:
1. Why are the leaves on my pothos turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency, or pest infestation. Check the soil moisture, light levels, and look for any signs of pests.
2. How often should I water my pothos?
Water your pothos when the top inch of soil is dry. In general, this is about once a week, but it can vary depending on the temperature, humidity, and pot size.
3. Can I save a pothos with root rot?
Yes, you can often save a pothos with root rot by removing the damaged roots and repotting the plant in fresh soil.
4. My pothos is getting leggy. What should I do?
Leggy growth is usually a sign of insufficient light. Move your pothos to a brighter spot. You can also prune the stems to encourage bushier growth.
5. Is it safe to keep a pothos in my bedroom?
Yes, pothos plants are safe to keep in your bedroom. They are even known for purifying the air.
6. How do I know if my pothos needs to be repotted?
If the roots are growing out of the drainage holes or if the plant is drying out quickly, it’s time to repot.
Conclusion: Pothos Revival is Possible!
Don’t lose hope! With a little detective work and some adjustments to your care routine, you can revive your dying pothos and bring it back to its former glory. Remember to pay attention to the plant’s specific needs, avoid common mistakes, and be patient. Your pothos will thank you!
