why is my refrigerator freezing? This question is most popular, many people face this problem of freezing in their refrigerators, there are many reasons that can cause the freezing in your refrigerator.
You’re in the right place we’ll show you the top reasons and fix why my refrigerators freezing.
Your refrigerator has a single cooling unit located in the freezer compartment. This cooling unit brings the air down to freezer temperatures, 0 degrees F.
To cool the fresh food compartment some of this 0-degree air is circulated through it using a small hidden fan. The typical inlet air location is “the very back center of the top shelf.”
The average temperature for the fresh food section maybe 35 degrees F, but it is achieved by blowing much colder air through the space.
When you adjust the two temperature controls one sets the air temperature and the other adjusts the airflow opening.
No matter what you do, freezing air will always flood the center of the top shelf.
Why is my refrigerator freezing?
Reason1. Temperature Sensor
1. check the temperature sensor it tells the control board the temperature inside the refrigerator.
temperature sensors are white plastic sensor bulbs that tell the control board the temperature inside the refrigerator section so it can run the compressor as needed to maintain the desired temperature.
temperature sensors are often used in multiple places in the fridge many times behind the back wall inside
an air duct or behind an access panel.
if the refrigerator is too cold it could be that the temperature sensor has failed or it’s reading out of its normal range
and the control board thinks it’s warmer than it really is so it keeps the compressor running.
to test the temperature sensor you’ll need to remove it from the system most times you can just unplug it so follow the wires back to the nearest connection point to see if it unplugs otherwise you’ll have to cut it out for testing.
as long as you have access to the plug or the bare wires you may just be able to leave it in the fridge for testing.
once you’re ready to test it you need to check the ambient air temperature in our case it’s about 73 degrees Fahrenheit the sensor will have a different ohms reading depending upon the temperature so you’ll have to look at your text sheet to see what it should read our sheet says about 5400 ohms at 73 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. set your meter to ohms your meter automatically detects whatever ohms are coming in but you may need to set your meter to read the proper ohm level.
3. touch the probes to the wiring harness pins or bare wires whichever you have.
4. check the ohms reading it should be close to the one specified in your text sheet if it is you can reinstall it but if the reading’s way off or you’re not getting a reading at all you’ll have to replace it.
Reason2. Cold control
cold controls have been used for many years they have a shaft for the knob to mount on a sensor bulb that senses the
temperature and the body which has the contacts inside of it most also have two wire terminals.
Cold control is located in the control panel mounted right behind the control knob.
If your refrigerator is too cold it could be that the cold control is bad contacts inside the cold control are open and closed by pressure created in the sensor bulb, as the refrigerator gets warmer and colder the fluid in the sensor bulb expands and contracts.
if you notice that the compressor is running too much and the refrigerator is freezing it could be that the contacts inside are stuck.
as a simple test while the refrigerator is running you can try knocking the area around the knob to see if this will break the contacts free.
if it works and the compressor shuts off and the refrigerator warms up to the correct temperature that’s a good indication that the contacts are sticking together and the cold control needs to be replaced.
if it didn’t work make sure to unplug the fridge again before you move on.
in order to see if the parking carries electric current, we have to test it with a multimeter set to continuity once you have it.
1. set touch the probes together to make sure it’s working.
in order to test the cold control, you’ll have to open the control section and remove the wires to remove the knob and screws to get to the wires.
- make sure the cold control is in the off position.
2. touch a probe to each terminal it should not have continuity in the off position.
3. turn the control on, it should have continuity when you have it in the on position.
if the control fails the continuity test it’ll have to be replaced.
the last part of the control to check is the sensor bulb over time they can rub against something or just fail and start leaking if you see any damage or indications of Euler residue along with the bulb or where it mounts to the body of the
control then it’ll have to be replaced.
Reason3. Main control board
the main control board sends power to the compressor the main control board collects all the data from all the sensors and switches of the refrigerator and controls the various functions including the compressor.
The main control board is usually mounted behind the control section in the refrigerator the dispenser control or on the back wall of the unit behind an access panel.
if the refrigerator is freezing it could be that a relay has failed and the compressor isn’t shutting off or it’s not reading the temperature sensors due to all the different designs out there.
you’ll have to get the tech sheet for your model and run the diagnostics.
you’d have to use the compressor condenser fan test, your sheet may call it something else but if the board fails to test it’ll have to be replaced.
Reason4. Air damper
the air damper controls how much cold air gets circulated in the refrigerator there have been many different designs
of air dampers used over the years but they all do the same thing, they have a small motor and a door that opens and closes to control how much cold air is leaking from the freezer.
air dampers are usually located in a divider wall between the freezer and fresh food sections
if the refrigerator is freezing it could be that the damper has failed in the open position usually this means the motor or gear has failed or the door linkage is broken and the door isn’t moving even if the motor is working.
if you think air circulation is the problem you should first check to make sure that the damper didn’t get ice built up on it, also if you have them check the lower vents to be sure they’re not blocked or iced up.
once you have access to the damper you’ll have to inspect the air damper door for any damage if it’s damaged you’ll have to replace the whole assembly.
if the door is fine we’ll have to test the motor for continuity.
most air dampers have a wiring harness that you’ll have to unplug because there are so many different designs of damper motors.
1. check your wiring diagram to see which wires to test.
our example has two circuits one for open and one for close so we’ll have to test them both once you
determine which wires to test.
2. touch the probes to the matching wire harness pins, it should have continuity otherwise you’ll have to change it out.
on some of the newer models, you can use the tech sheet to test the damper yours might be different but in this
example, you use the damper operation test.
if the damper fails the test it’ll need to be replaced.
Reason5. Temperature control board
the temperature control board monitors and controls the temperature of the refrigerator, some models use a separate temperature control board to monitor and control the temperatures, they’re small control boards and
usually have displays on them to show the temperature.
if your model has one it’ll be on the dispenser or inside the refrigerator at the top behind the control panel usually where the temperature display and controls are.
it’s unusual for the temperature control board to fail but it is an electronic part subject to moisture so it can go bad, the touch control could be going bad or corrosion could cause an incorrect sensor reading.
if your refrigerator is freezing and you’ve checked everything else.
- make sure you test the board.
unfortunately, there are so many designs out there
1. use your tech sheet and run the test for your board.
if it fails the test you’ll have to replace it.
Reason6. Condenser coils are dirty
if the refrigerator is freezing it could be condenser coils are dirty.
if the condenser and other components are covered in dust and pet hair, dust and pet hair can insulate the coils
preventing them from working efficiently.
this can also make the refrigerator run more and cause wear and tear to those components.
keeping the coils clean can improve your refrigerator’s efficiency by 30% so doing this can save you money on your
electric bill in future repair costs.
in order to clean them, you’ll have to pull the refrigerator out and remove the rear access panel then carefully clean the coils.
keep in mind that some may be accessed from the front, you may have to use a condenser cleaning brush to reach in deep, also while you’re back there clean the compressor condenser motor and fan blade and wipe down everything else.
- be sure you’re careful not to damage anything, and make sure you do this at least once a year.
if you’re looking how to clean your condenser coils?
Why is ice build up in my refrigerator?
Reason1. Defrost timer
This part controls the defrost cycle of the refrigerator,
switching the fridge between defrost and cooling cycles.
If there is frost built up on the back of the fridge, it may be that the defrost timer has failed.
Reason2. Defrost thermostat
This is a safety device that cuts off the defrost cycle if the freezer gets too warm.
The defrost thermostat protects the freezer from overheating and spoiling food.
If there is frost buildup within the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat should be tested and potentially replaced.
Reason3. Door Gasket.
The refrigerator uses the door gaskets to keep the hot air out and the cold air in.
You can start with cleaning the existing gaskets as needed.
If the gaskets are lost or badly damaged, they will need to be replaced.
Reason4. Freezer drain.
This is where the freezer water drains during the defrost cycle.
There are multiple fixes within the video, but the freezer drain may need to be replaced if it is damaged.
Reason5. Ice Dispenser Chute Door
The chute door opens to allow the ice to come out of the dispenser and closes/seals the chute when done. If the ice dispenser door is damaged, warm and cold air may mix and result in frost buildup.
Reason6. Defrost Temperature Sensor
This sensor tells the control board the temperature inside the refrigerator.
If this part isn’t operating correctly, it will need to be replaced to ensure the fridge maintains the correct temperature.
Reason7. Defrost heater
The heater heats the fridge up to melt the ice off the evaporator during the defrost cycle.
If the back of the fridge is frosted up, the defrost heater may have failed.
Why is my refrigerator freezing up at night?
Freeze-ups are typically due to several issues. The overnight thing is merely time allowed for build-up.
First, check all door seals.
If there is air leakage or if the doors do not close properly then moist air gets in and ice build-up occurs.
- Gently pull the seal away and look for cracks.
- The next thing is to defrost.
Sometimes the heater elements will fail and thus no defrost, The defrost timer will usually cycle 4 times each 24 hours and initiate the heater element. The cycle will last around 30 minutes and will terminate.
The compressor comes on for a few minutes to refreeze any remaining moisture and then the fan is energized. If either the defrost timer is faulty or the heater elements are burnt then there’s no way to de-ice so the but-up begins.
- Plugged drain means water on the floor. Judging that you say there is too much freeze up I would tend to check the seals first.
The problem with domestic refrigeration is that the cost of repair can quickly overcome the cost of replacement.
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How do I stop my fridge from freezing?
1. Make sure the door gasket is intact.
2. cover foods that might release moisture.
3. make sure no objects make contact with the inside back wall of the fridge ( this will stop the airflow).
4. check that the drain hole from the inside of the fridge is open (poke it with a wooden barbecue stick etc).
5. condensed humidity will run down the back wall out through and drip onto the compressor pan which is hot, which again dissolves the water into the air/room.
6. avoid putting delicate goods in direct contact with the cooling compartment (usually bottom in the back)
So keep your salad towards the door in the upper shelves, And in the back put things with water content and/or that are kept in jars or boxes