How To Install Central Vacuum In Your Home: A Comprehensive Guide

What is a central vacuum system in a house?

A central vacuum cleaner (also referred to as built-in or ducted) is a type of vacuum cleaner equipment, installed right into construction as a semi-permanent fixture. Central vacuum systems are designed to take away dust and debris from houses and buildings, sending dirt particles through tubing put in inside the walls to a collection container in remote utility space.

The power unit is an everlasting fixture, usually installed in a basement, garage, or storage room, together with the gathering container. Inlets are put in walls throughout the construction that connects to power hoses and different central vacuum accessories to take away dust, particles, and small particles from inside rooms. Most power hoses usually have a power swap positioned on the handle.

central vacuum system. It will make cleaning your home easier and improve indoor air quality. The system typically can be installed in virtually any home with no costly alterations and very little mess.

many people wondering how to install central vacuum in their houses that’s what is going to explain below.

how to install central vacuum

What are tools needed to install central vacuum?

  1. Drywall noticed (non-obligatory)
  2. Pencil
  3. Electrical tape/duct tape/cable ties
  4. Pipe/tubing cutter or hacksaw and miter box
  5. Electric drill—1\/2″ (1.3cm) with right-angle head if potential
  6. Safety goggles
  7. Flashlight
  8. Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat blade)
  9. Forstner wood-boring bit—2- 3/8″ (2-1\/2” if utilizing PVC Sch 40)
  10. Steel tape measure ™
  11. Hammer ™
  12. Stud finder ™
  13. Hole saw or cutter—2-3/8″ (2- 1\/2” if using PVC Sch 40) ™
  14. Utility/razor knife
  15. Masonry bit—2-3/8″ (2-1\/2” if using PVC SCH 40) (optional) ™
  16. Wire stripper/cutter
  17. Metal coat hangers
  18. Wood chisel
  19. Miter Saw
  20. 30′ (9.15m) piece of cord or string


• Use a tubing cutter for cleaner cuts.

• Use 2-3/8″ a wood-boring bit similar to a Forstner bit, or a 2-1\/2” wooden boring bit if utilizing PVC Sch 40 Plumbing pipe o Rent a right-angle drill should you do not have one.

What are the Components of a Central Vacuum System?

1) The Unit

There are three principal sorts to select from; Paper Bag Filtered Systems, Cyclonic Action Systems (with drop-down filters, cartridges, or washable filters), or True Cyclonic Separation Systems.

The Unit is usually mounted within the garage, basement, utility room, storage room, or mudroom to take away dust and allergens from living areas.

Note: True Cyclonic models require venting to the outside. Other units could also be vented to the outside as well.

2) The Inlet Kit

 Choose from Standard Inlets or Electrical Inlets. Dust and dust are carried using tubing from the inlet to the power unit. You could choose from 2in O.D. Central Vacuum tubing, or use 2in I.D. PVC Schedule 40 Pipe with adapters.

3) The Attachment Set:

Choose from the Air Turbine Attachment set (proven below), Electrical Attachment set with an Electric Powerhead, or a Bare Floor Attachment Set. Sets include hose, wand(s), and numerous tools.

Notes: Reasons to make use of our exclusive Patent Pending Adaptor Kits which enable you to use SCH 40 2in PVC plumbing pipe bought locally.

  • Using plumbing pipe will enhance your CFM or your airflow by over 25%.
  • 2in plumbing pipe is accessible almost anywhere. Vacuum pipe is limited mainly to central vacuum dealers.
  • Plumbing pipe is rather more substantial (thicker and stronger) than vacuum pipe.
  • Plumbing pipe comes in lengths up to 20FT which offers higher system performance requiring much less cutting and gluing.
  • The plumbing pipe works properly underground.
  • Plumbing pipe offers much less chance for clogs due to the larger diameter.

How to install central vacuum?

Please comply with these directions and steps beneath to know how to install a central vacuum system:

Step1:  Choose your system.

You’ve already accomplished step primary…you’ve bought your highly effective, new system. Next, inventory the elements that arrived together with your central vacuum system equipment and assemble the tools you will want.

Inventory all the parts.

 Layout the elements so you already know you will have all of them and what every is called A three-inlet valve system with pipe sometimes consists of:

(3) Inlet Valve Face Plates

(80) Ft Vacuum Tubing

 (3) Mounting Brackets

(3) Short 90 Degree Elbows

(9) Sweep 90 Degree Elbows

 (6) 45 Degree Elbows

(2) Sweep T

(12) Stop Couplers

 (6) Pipe Straps

 (1) Can Glue

 (1) Cable Tie package deal

(80) Ft Low Voltage Wire

(1) Instruction Book

Step2: Plan the variety of inlets.

To make sure your central vacuum system reaches each room throughout the home, you need to first decide the variety of inlets you will want and the place to position them.

One inlet valve can serve 700-800 sq. feet (63-72 sq m). Use solely inside walls if potential, so that you received need to deal with insulation sometimes found in exterior walls.

Note: If you’re utilizing the Hide-a-Hose System, please consult with the directions that correspond with Hide-a-Hose.

Step3: Plan placement of inlets and unit.

Choose the best place for the inlet valve.

Good areas are centrally situated in hallways or closet walls and/or doorways. Do not place inlets behind doors or furnishings.

Use a stud finder, or sound-out the wall, to verify the location for the inlet valve is between the studs and that the area is open behind the wallboard.

Also, check the opposite aspect of the wall to ensure it’s clear of obstructions comparable to utilities and outlets.

Caution: Do not install an inlet behind a door or in a wall that has a pocket door.

Then have a helper hold the top of the hose on the proposed site for the inlet valve and take the opposite finish and stroll across the room(s). If you don’t have any helper, use a piece of wire or string that’s 30 feet (9.15m) long—the size of the hose. You need to have the ability to attain everywhere from floor to ceiling even with furnishings in the way in which.

You could have to decide on a unique location or add one other inlet to cover the entire floor. Remember, one inlet sometimes covers about 700-800 square feet (63-72 sq m). Repeat this step on every ground of your house.

How to install inlet valves upstairs?

Because there are completed walls above and under the second-floor soleplate, putting in inlet valves upstairs can take slightly extra ingenuity. There are several choices.

 Place an inlet exterior a closet wall after which run the tubing by the wall and thru the within of the closet and down.

Another choice is to run the tubing up into the attic then throughout and down to the inlet. Yet one other answer is to put the upstairs inlet valve instantly into the ground.

Existing house: If selecting an electrical powerhead, the inlet valve has to be inside 6 feet (1.83m) of {an electrical} outlet. A change on the deal sends a sign by “low-voltage” (24 volts) wiring to show the facility unit on and off.

New building: If your house is underneath the building, you must think about using electrical inlets.

Electric valves have low-voltage and family wiring connections in-built, so there’s no want for a close-by electrical outlet.

Inlet valves need to be put in earlier than drywall is hung. The installation has to be coordinated with an electrician to put in {the electrical} wire after the tubing has been put in.

How to choose where to mount the power unit?

To make sure that mud and filth are successfully far away from dwelling areas in your house;

  • mount the facility unit in your hooked-up storage. If you wouldn’t have hooked up storage, a basement, utility room, storage room, or mudroom is one of the best various locations.
  • Find a location close to {an electrical} supply with loads of room for air to flow into on all sides of the unit. You’ll want a devoted 15- or 20-amp circuit.
  • Check the proprietor’s guide to your unit’s specifications.

Step4: Plan the tubing setup.

Before you put in the tubing to hold mud and grime to the ability unit, plan your route.

  • Running the tubing beneath the sub-floor every time potential makes tubing simpler to work with and creates the shortest path between the inlet valves and the ability unit. If the tubing has to run after a water heater or chimney flue—on your security and to adjust to constructing codes:
  • use metallic central vacuum system tubing for that part. If the tubing runs using unheated, chilly, or unprotected surroundings.
  • wrap it with insulation to stop condensation and the potential for clogging.

How to Install inlet valve?

  1. Take a wall mounting bracket
  2. lower or snap off the new building flange and dispose of it. (In new construction, nail the tab to the stud.
  3. Use a level to verify the mounting bracket is degree.
  4. hint the define of the mounting bracket onto the wall.
  5. The prime and backside cuts are important because the flange will relax on these areas.
  6. Take a utility knife and rating the traces.
  7. use the utility knife or a drywall noticed to cut a gap employing the drywall.
  8. Attach a Short 90 Degree Elbow to the flange on the again of the mounting bracket.
  9. Apply glue across the exterior of the mounting bracket flange and twist the Short 90 Degree Elbow into place.
  10. Make certain the open finish faces the path it is going to meet the tubing—normally straight down. (If the tubing has to run from the attic, the opening of the Short 90 Degree Elbow will face upward.)
  11. Apply glue solely to the skin of the tubing. This will stop the glue from creating obstructions that might clog your system.
  12. Runabout 6″ (15.24cm) of the low-voltage wire using the information hole within the mounting bracket.
  13. Split the wire into two strands and strip 1″ of insulation from every strand.
  14. Wrap the strands in a clockwise direction across the screws on the again of the inlet valve.
  15. Tighten the screws.
  16. connect a weight to the end of the low-voltage wire and drop it down to the basement or crawlspace.

Have a length of wire coat hanger ready with one finish bent right into a hook.

  1. Insert the mounting bracket into the wall gap…first down…then up…centering it.
  2. Take the hanger and insert the hooked finish of the hanger into the Short 90 Degree Elbow to carry the bracket in place.
  3. slide the inlet valve face plate alongside the wire hanger into the mounting bracket.
  4. Screw the valve into place.
  5. Remove the wire hook.
  6. Be certain to mount the inlet valve faceplate so the lid pulls down to open.
  7. apply glue to enough size of tubing and goal it upward using the opening within the soleplate and into the Short 90 Degree Elbow on the again of the mounting bracket.
  8. Enlarge the hole within the exterior wall to accommodate the inlet valve meeting (valve faceplate and mounting bracket).
  9. t, drill a pilot gap using the ground beneath the opening within the wall or a handy location close by to test for obstructions.
  10. . If there are not any obstructions, lower a 2-3/8″ gap through the ground.
  11. Run the low-voltage wire using the opening within the ground and the wall to the outside of the closet.
  12. Pass the low-voltage wire through the wire information gap within the interior wall closet assembly and tape or cable tie low-voltage wire to this assembly instantly behind the bracket.
  13. Place the interior wall assembly lengthwise by the wall opening and organize the assembly so the bracket is flush with the within the floor of the wall.
  14. Attach wires to low-voltage terminals on the again of the inlet valve faceplate as beforehand described. Screw the inlet valve faceplate to the wall bracket them earlier than gluing.
  15. When making use of glue, work rapidly to prevent the glue on the high finish of the tubing from drying earlier than it reaches the becoming on the inlet valve. Remember, apply glue only to the outside of the tubing.

How to Install VacPan?

A VacPan is an extremely popular possibility for the kitchen, mudroom, and tub. Here are some suggestions for set up:
First. decide the very best place to put in the dustpan; both underneath a cupboard or within the wall. Keep in thoughts that the forefront of the VacPan should sit flush with the completed flooring.

How to inlet valve installation for New construction?

Select a site for the inlet valve and drill a pilot hole by the ground. Go under to examine that the tubing path is obvious of current, or future, obstructions corresponding to ground joists, heating ducts, plumbing, wires.

At the inlet valve location, drill a 2-3/8″ diameter hole by the only plate. The hole must be 2″ from the facet of the stud and centered between the back and front edges of the only plate.

1. Install BUILDING WIRE CONDUCTORS (1) by the approved type electrical CONNECTOR (2) (equipped) till they protrude roughly six inches from the connector.

Seat connector firmly into the opening atop the WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Insert and safe LOCKING TAB (3).

 2. Splice wires from INLET VALVE RECEPTACLE (7) to the protruding constructing wire conductors with #31 TWIST-ON WIRE CONNECTORS (8) (not equipped).

3. Feed LOW VOLTAGE RELAY WIRES (5) by opening within the LVT COVER PLATE (6) and connecting with the 2 contact screws of INLET VALVE FACEPLATE (9).

4. Push Inlet Valve faceplate (10) into MOUNTING PLATE (11). At the identical time, push ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS (12) and connectors (8) into WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Back out the 2 screws that maintain the wiring compartment in place.

Slip higher FINISHED WALL CLIP (13) beneath the screw heads and tightly fasten each wiring compartment and higher finished-wall clip (13) with MOUNTING SCREWS (equipped).

5. Install the decreased FINISHED WALL CLIP (14) with screws (equipped).

  • Connect tubing from further inlet valves to the primary trunk line utilizing a Sweep T.
  • use clamps to carry the sections in place.
  • Be certain to put in the Sweep T so the sweep is towards the facility unit.
  • String the low-voltage wire alongside as you assemble the tubing.
  • Join or splice low voltage wires with wire connectors at every junction or branch of the tubing.
  • Use Cable ties to secure connections.
  • To be sure that the polarity is true; at all times connect wires of the identical coloration sometimes copper to copper and silver to silver. Proceed till the tubing system is full.

6. Secure Inlet Valve faceplate (10) to mounting plate (11) utilizing the 2 equipped coloration matched SCREWS (15).


After pipe, low voltage relay control wire, electrical constructing wires, and opening in the wall have been minimized:

1. Remove mounting plate NAILING FLANGE (16). Use a hack noticed or rating with a razor knife alongside the dotted line and snap off.

2. Repeat the 1st step (from NEW CONSTRUCTION).

 3. Install modified mounting plate with brief 90° ELL glued in place into the wall opening.

4. Repeat steps 2-6 (from NEW CONSTRUCTION).

How to install central vacuum piping?

Step5: Install the tubing or piping.

(Existing Home or New Construction)

Beginning on the inlet farthest from the ability unit, quickly fasten tubing for the principal trunk line into place.

  1. Push a size of tubing up into the backside of the elbow on the inlet valve meeting.
  2. Piece collectively sections of tubing without glue at first to verify issues match correctly.
  3. Mark the connections so you possibly can re-assemble them by identical means.
  4. Remember, the tubing enters the becoming roughly 3/4″. Measure, lower, and deburr tubing, and, utilizing a Sweep 90 Degree Elbow.
  5. slip-fit the vertical tubing line to the principle horizontal line. To keep away from potential clogging issues when putting in tubing and fittings:

• Make straight cuts on tubing (pipe/tubing cutter works nicely or a miter noticed).

• Remove burrs from the ends of the tubing.

• Be positive tubing matches towards the shoulder of the becoming with no gaps.

 • Glue solely the surface fringe of the tubing earlier than meeting into fittings.

 • Push and twist the pipe and fittings collectively.

Masonry or concrete walls

If you need to run tubing by masonry or concrete partitions:

  • rent a hammer drill and/or masonry hole noticed.
  • Run the tubing by and patch the outlet when the setup is full and the system is operating correctly.

Before drilling

  • check native constructing codes for particular firewall penetration laws. The code ought to inform you if metal tubing or firestop couplers are required for firewall penetration.

Step6: Install the power unit

Attach the ability unit to the wall inside six ft of a grounded electrical outlet making certain it will likely be simply accessible for emptying the dust receptacle, a minimum of 18” from the ground.

For correct motor cooling, there should be a minimum of 12″ between the unit and the ceiling.
Do not set up the ability unit the place the ambient temperature recurrently exceeds 120 levels Fahrenheit (48.9 levels C).
If mounting on plaster, wallboard, or panel walls, ensure mounting bolts enter studs. If mounting on a block or concrete wall, drill the holes with a masonry bit and insert plastic or lead anchors.

As a substitute for mounting on concrete partitions, droop 2″ x 4″ (5.1cm x 10.16cm) studs or plywood from overhead.

To connect the low-voltage wires, strip the wire and crimp the strands into the 2 “slip-on” (spade) terminals offered:
• Attach the terminals and plug the ability unit into the devoted electrical outlet. The sentry mild ought to come on.
• Turn on the swap, if relevant, and the ability unit ought to activate.
• Attach the remaining part of tubing to the ability unit with connector(s) and clamp(s) offered.
For added setup comfort, some energy models might have inlet connections on both aspects. If your system got here with a muffler, clamp it to the exhaust port.

Power unit electrical wiring.
Check native codes however use not lower than #14-Three wire. Plug energy unit wire into acceptable 120/220/230/240V — 50/60 cycle electrical outlet. Be certain line voltage is enough to deal with a 15 or 20 amp load.

How to Check your setup to verify it works correctly?

1) Check to see if in case you have a closed system. With no hose or deal with hooked up, and all inlet valves closed, there ought to be little or no air coming via the exhaust of the ability unit when it’s turned on.

2) With the system nonetheless operating, stroll via your property. If you hear whistling or hissing, you’ll have forgotten to connect a connection. Check basement and attic areas, too.

3) Have a helper plug the hose into every of the inlet valves to make sure you may flip the ability on. Turn off the swap on the hose deal with, if relevant, and the unit ought to flip off. If the unit doesn’t flip on and off as required, you’ll have low voltage wires reversed, minimized, or disconnected.

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My Name is Elhoucine I am a passionate blogger, I have been searching and reading about the newly released gadgets, appliances, and products, and through this blog, I am trying to share some of the acquired experience to help you with everything related to home.