How to Install Kitchenaid Ice Maker: Step-by-Step Instructions

Are you wondering How to install Kitchenaid ice maker? Is this the first you buy an ice maker and you want to install it and you don’t know how? Are used to calling a qualified person to install your ice maker which costs you a lot of money.

You are in the right place we’ll show you how to install Kitchenaid ice maker to yourself without calling you an expert we’ll show you many things related to the installations of an ice maker machine.

Please follow and read the instructions below from A to Z to know How to install Kitchenaid ice maker

Before we start the set up After you got an ice maker you might unpack the ice maker.

How to install Kitchenaid ice maker?

How to unpack an ice maker?

1. Removing Packaging Materials

Remove tape and glue out of your ice maker before using.

To take away any remaining tape or glue from the outside of the ice maker, rub the area briskly together with your thumb. Tape or glue residue may also be simply removed by rubbing a small quantity of liquid dish cleaning soap over the adhesive along with your fingers. Wipe with heat water and dry.
Do not use sharp instruments, rubbing alcohol, flammable fluids, or abrasive cleaners to take away tape or glue. Do not use chlorine bleach on the surfaces of the ice maker. These products can damage the surface of your ice maker.

2. Cleaning Before Use

After you take away the entire packaging supplies, clean the within of your ice maker before using it.

What are the location requirements to install an ice maker?

1. Installation should adjust to all governing codes and ordinances.

2. To ensure proper airflow on your ice maker, the front aspect have to be fully unobstructed. The ice maker could also be closed-in on the top and three sides, but the installation ought to permit the ice maker to be pulled ahead for services if needed.

2. The auxiliary grill kit offered (only on customized panel models) can be used to align the toe grill with the rest of the cabinets while not obstructing the airflow of the ice maker.

3. Installation of the ice maker requires cold water provide inlet of 1/4″ (6.35 mm) OD smooth copper tubing with a shutoff valve.

4. Choose a well-ventilated space with temperatures above 55°F (13°C) and under 110°F (43°C). Best outcomes are obtained between 70°F and 90°F (21ºC and 32°C).

5. The ice maker has to be put in a space sheltered from the elements, such as wind, rain, water spray, or drip.

Notes:

Check that the ability supply wire is not damaged or pinched or kinked between the ice maker and the cabinet.
Check that the water supply line is not damaged or pinched or kinked between the ice maker and the cabinet.
Check that the drain line (on some models) is not damaged or pinched or kinked between the ice maker and the cabinet.
Choose a location where the ground is even. The ice maker must be level to work correctly. If wanted, you’ll be able to adjust the height of the ice maker by changing the height of the leveling legs.

What are the Water Supply Requirements to install an ice maker?

Check that the water supply lines are insulated in opposition to freezing conditions. Ice formations within the supply lines can improve water pressure and damage your ice maker or home.

A cold water supply with a water pressure of between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate the ice maker.

Reverse Osmosis Water Supply

Connect to potable water only.
The pressure of the water provide popping out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the ice maker needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa).

If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is linked to your cold water provide, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimal of 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa).

NOTE: The reverse osmosis system must provide 1 gal. (3.8 L) of water per hour to the ice maker for correct ice maker operation.

If a reverse osmosis system is desired, only a whole-house capability reverse osmosis system, able to maintain the regular water provide required by the ice maker, is recommended.

Faucet capacity reverses osmosis systems should not able to keep the steady water provide required by the ice maker.

If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is lower than 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa):

Check to see whether or not the sediment filter within the reverse osmosis system is blocked.
Replace the filter if needed.
Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill after heavy usage.

What are the drain connection Requirements to install an ice maker?

Gravity Drain System

Drain lines should have a minimum of 5/8″ (15.88 mm) I.D. (inside diameter).
Drain lines should have a 1″ dropper 48″ (2.54 cm drop per 122 cm) of run or 1/4″ drop per 12″ (6.35 mm per 30.48 cm) of run and should not have low points where water can settle.
The ground drains have to be large sufficient to accommodate drainage from all drains.
The preferred installation has a standpipe with a 1¹⁄2″ (3.81 cm) to 2″ (5.08 cm) PVC drain reducer put in straight under the outlet of the drain tube. You should keep a 1″ (2.54 cm) air hole between the drain hose and the standpipe.
Do not connect the outlet end of the drain tube to a closed pipe system to maintain drain water from backing up into the ice maker.

Drain Pump System

Connect the ice maker drain to your drain following the International Plumbing Code and any local codes and ordinances.
The drain pump discharge line should terminate at an open-site drain.
Maximum rise 10 ft (3.1 m)
Maximum run 100 ft (30.5 m)

NOTES:

If the drain hose turns twisted and water can not drain, your ice maker won’t work.

It could also be desirable to insulate the drain line thoroughly as much as the drain inlet.
Do not connect the outlet end of the drain tube to a closed pipe system to maintain drain water from backing up into the ice maker.
Drain pump most capability: For every 1 ft (0.31 m) of rising, subtract 10 ft (3.1 m) of the maximum allowable run.

How to reverse the Door on an ice maker?

1. Unplug the ice maker or disconnect power.

2. Remove the screws attaching the highest and bottom hinge covers utilizing a 3/16″ hex driver.

3. Using pliers, take away the hinge covers from the highest and bottom hinges.

4. Lay down the ice maker.

Be certain to cover the ground with cardboard or hardboard to keep away from damaging it.

5. Remove the screws holding the panel from the bottom of the door.

6. Set the panel and screws apart.

For the customized panel model

7. Remove the screws and the highest metal bracket utilizing the Phillips screwdriver.

8. Place them apart.

9. Remove the plastic screw cover from the within of the hinges and set it apart.

10. Remove the highest and bottom plastic end caps from the door.

11. Unscrew the door hinge screws completely from the highest and bottom hinges and place them apart.

12. Remove the door and place it apart.

13. Swap the hinge screws to the other aspect.

14. Remove the screws and hinges from the cabinet with the Torx T25 screwdriver and place them apart.

15. Remove the screw cap cover and change it on the opposite side.

1. Preparing the Bottom Hinges

1. Unscrew and take away the grill cover utilizing a Torx T20 screwdriver. Place them apart.

2. Remove the screw cover and place it on the opposite aspect.

3. Reinstall the grill cover.

2. Reversing the Hinges and End Caps

1. Install the hinge screws (positioned apart in step 10 of “Door Panel and Hinge Removal”) halfway on the specified aspect of the cabinet.

2. Take the unique top hinge, flip it and place it within the bottom hinge position on the other side. Slide onto the cabinet hinge screws.

The hinge tabs on the hinges ought to time face another.

3. Take the original bottom hinge, flip it and place it within the top hinge place on the other aspect.

4. Slide onto the cabinet hinge screws.

5. Fully tighten the top and bottom hinge screws.

3. Final Door Placement

1. Slide the door onto the hinges. Using a Torx T25 screwdriver set up the screws onto the door.

2. Reinstall the plastic screw cover to its original areas on the hinges.

3. Reinstall the top and bottom end caps on the door.

4. Place the metal door panel back on the door as soon as all screws are tightened.

5. Screw the 2 hex heads screws back in on the bottom of the door.

6. Return the ice maker to the upright position.

4. Reverse Door Catch

1. Remove the white decorative screws from the other aspect of the door and set them apart.

2. Remove the screws from the magnetic door catch and place them on the other aspect of the door.

3. Install the white ornamental screws on the other aspect of the door.

How to install a drain pump on an ice maker?

If Ice Maker Is Currently Installed:

1. Push the selector switch to the OFF position.

2. Unplug the ice maker or disconnect power.

3. Turn off the water supply. Wait for 5 to 10 minutes for the ice to fall into the storage bin. Remove all ice from the bin.

4. Unscrew the drain cap from the bottom of the water pan positioned contained in the storage bin. Allow water to empty fully. Replace drain cap.

To install a drain pump on an ice maker:

1. Unplug the ice maker or disconnect power.

2. Remove rear panel.

3. Pull the rear panel away from the drain tube. put aside the rear panel.

4. Remove the outdated drain tube and clamp connected to the ice maker bin.

NOTE: Discard outdated drain tube and clamp.

5. Slide drain pump into the ice maker based on the suitable aspect.

The pump mounting tab ought to slip into the rectangular slot within the ice maker base.

It will probably be essential to tip the pump slightly to slip into the slot.

6. Align the two screw holes on the rear of the pump. Use two #8-32 x 3/8″ screws, supplied.

7. Install vent tube (5/16″ I.D. x 32″ [81 cm]) to empty the pump reservoir vent behind the wiring cover.

Use supplied 5/8″ small adjustable clamps.
Use plastic retainer to maintain vent hose secure to the top of the inner deck.

NOTE: Do not set up a household drain tube this time.

8. Remove wiring cover.

9. Route vent tube by a plastic retainer that’s positioned underneath the top deck in open pump space.

Using cable tie, tie the vent tube to the black suction tube which is positioned behind the wiring cover.

10. Secure wiring cover back in place.

11. Remove power wire clamp and floor screw connected to ice maker power wire, which is mounted to the unit base.

NOTE: Clamp and screw will probably be reused.

12. Coil icemaker power wire right into a 4″ (10.2 cm) diameter coil.

Wrap electrical tape across the power wire in many locations to maintain the wire in a coil.
Locate a coiled power wire between the drain pump and the aspect of the enclosure and plug it into the receptacle of the drain pump.

13. . Attach the drain pump power wire to the ice maker unit base with clamp and screw that was used to connect the ice maker power wire.

14. Install new drain tube (5/8″ I.D. x 5¹⁄8″) from ice maker bin to empty pump reservoir inlet using new adjustable clamps.

NOTES:

Do not kink.
Trim tube size if required.

15. Attach 1/2″ I.D. x 10 ft (Three m) drain tube to pump discharge tube.

NOTE: Do not connect the outlet finish of the drain tube to a closed pipe system to keep drain water from backing up into the ice maker.

16. Using a cable tie, fix the drain tube to the rear panel.

17. Secure the rear panel with original screws.

18. Check all connections for leaks.

How to install ice maker supply line?

Tools Needed:

Gather the required instruments and elements before beginning set up:

7/16″ and 1/2″ open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches

NOTE: Do not use a piercing-type or 3/16″ (4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more simply.

1. Turn off the primary water supply. Turn on the closest faucet long sufficient to clear the line of water.

2. Using a 1/2″ copper supply line with a quarter-turn shutoff valve or the equal, connect the ice maker.

NOTE: To permit adequate water flow to the ice maker a minimal 1/2″ diameter home supply line is beneficial.

3. Now you’re prepared to attach the copper tubing. Use 1/4″ (6.35 mm) O.D. soft copper tubing for the cold water supply.

Ensure that you have the right size needed for the job. Be certain each end of the copper tubing is minimized square.
Slip compression sleeve and compression nut on copper tubing. Insert the top of the tubing into the outlet finish squarely so far as it would go. Screw compression nut onto outlet end with an adjustable wrench. Do not overtighten.
For customized panel set up, make certain their water line extends 30″ beyond the cabinet for future servicing functions.

4. Place the free finish of the tubing right into a container or sink, and activate the main water supply and flush out tubing till water is evident. Turn off the shutoff valve on the water pipe.

IMPORTANT: Always drain the water line before making the ultimate connection to the inlet of the water valve to keep away from potential water valve malfunction.

5. Water inlet tube is positioned on the rear aspect of the ice maker.

Bend the copper tubing to match with the water line inlet.
Leave the coil of copper tubing as it’s to permit the ice maker to be pulled out of the cabinet or away from the wall for service.

6. Remove and discard the quick, plastic tube from the top of the water line inlet.

7. Thread the nut onto the end of the tubing. Tighten the nut by hand. Then tighten it with a wrench two extra turns. Do not overtighten.

NOTE: To keep away from rattling, be sure the copper tubing doesn’t contact the cabinet’s sidewall or different elements inside the cabinet.

8. Install the water supply tube clamp across the water supply line to scale back pressure on the coupling.

9. Turn shutoff valve ON.

10. Check for leaks. Tighten any connections (together with connections on the valve) or nuts that leak.

How to level and secure your ice maker machine?

The ice maker needs to be level to work correctly. Depending upon where you put in the ice maker, you could make any changes to the degree it.

You can also use the leveling legs to decrease the height of the ice maker for under-counter installations.

Tools Needed:

Gather the required tools and elements earlier than beginning set up.

Level
Adjustable wrench

NOTE: It is less complicated to regulate the leveling legs you probably have one other individual to help you.

1. Move the ice maker in front of its closing location. Be sure to cover the ground with cardboard or hardboard to keep away from damaging it.

NOTE: If this can be a built-in setup, transfer the ice maker as shut as potential to the ultimate location.

2. Remove the screws attaching the highest and backside hinge covers utilizing a 3/16″ hex driver.

3. Using pliers, remove the hinge covers from the highest and backside hinges.

NOTE: Save the hinge covers for future use. Reinstall the hinge covers if the product is removed from the cabinet set up.

4. Use ice maker leveling legs to align the ice maker door to the adjoining cabinet opening.

5. Slide the ice maker into the cabinet while managing the utility connection positions behind the ice maker. Be sure to cover the ground with cardboard or hardboard to keep away from damaging it.

6. Be sure that the ice maker is at the desired depth. Secure the top and bottom hinges to the aspect of the cabinet utilizing wood screws.

7. Attach the cabinet brackets (supplied with icemaker) to the holes within the front of the ice maker as shown within the illustration. Attach the cabinet brackets to the aspect of the cabinet with wood screws.

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After reading and following the instructions above you might know How to install Kitchenaid ice maker for yourself without calling a professional you can do it yourself if you followed the instructions above.